Burberry Heritage: The Iconic Check Pattern and Brand Value

Introduction

Burberry’s iconic check pattern stands as one of fashion’s most recognizable designs, serving as both a symbol of British heritage and luxury craftsmanship. This distinctive tartan has evolved from a functional fabric lining to a global status symbol, becoming synonymous with the brand itself. This article explores the rich history behind the Burberry check, its evolution through decades of fashion, and how it continues to contribute to Burberry’s significant brand value in today’s luxury market.

The Origins of Burberry Check

The famous Burberry check pattern, sometimes incorrectly referred to as “Burberry plaid,” originated in the 1920s. Thomas Burberry, who founded the company in 1856, initially used the check as a lining for the brand’s renowned trench coats. The pattern features a distinctive design with a beige background crossed with black, white, and red lines, creating what would eventually be known as the “Burberry check” or “Burberry tartan.”

Originally registered as a trademark in the 1920s, the check was initially used solely as a lining element, hidden inside the brand’s weatherproof outerwear. This practical application would later transform into one of fashion’s most coveted visual identifiers.

The Trench Coat Connection

The check’s heritage is intrinsically linked to Burberry’s most iconic creation: the trench coat. Developed during World War I for British military officers, the trench coat featured the distinctive check lining, adding a subtle touch of distinction to a utilitarian garment. This connection to British military history would later become a cornerstone of Burberry’s marketing narrative, emphasizing the brand’s patriotic legacy and commitment to quality.

Evolution from Functional Element to Fashion Statement

While the check remained primarily a lining element for decades, the 1960s marked a turning point in its visibility. During this period, Burberry began using the check pattern more prominently in designs, reflecting the changing fashion landscape and consumer desire for visible branding.

The real transformation came in the 1980s, when Burberry embraced the check as a central design element. The pattern moved from the inside to the outside of garments, appearing on everything from umbrellas and scarves to handbags and ready-to-wear collections. This strategic shift turned the check into a powerful brand signifier that consumers actively sought out.

The 1990s Explosion and Cultural Impact

• The check became instantly recognizable worldwide, solidifying Burberry’s global presence.
• Extensive licensing led to the pattern appearing on countless products, from dog leashes to baby carriages.
• The pattern’s ubiquity eventually created concerns about overexposure and brand dilution.
• By the early 2000s, the check had become associated with “chav” culture in the UK, temporarily damaging its luxury positioning.

The Check’s Contribution to Brand Value

Despite periods of overexposure, the Burberry check remains one of the most valuable visual assets in the luxury fashion world. The pattern contributes significantly to Burberry’s overall brand value.

Intellectual Property Protection

Burberry vigorously defends its check pattern through trademark protections worldwide, winning legal battles against counterfeiters and unauthorized use. Courts in key markets recognize the check’s status as a well-known trademark, strengthening its value as intellectual property.

Premium Pricing Power

Products featuring the Burberry check consistently command premium prices. Consumers perceive check-bearing items as investment pieces with enduring value, such as the Nova Check cashmere scarf.

Brand Recognition

The check serves as an immediate visual shorthand for Burberry, enabling instant identification in crowded luxury marketplaces and reinforcing preference and recall.

Revitalization Under Creative Directors

Christopher Bailey (2001–2018)

Bailey reduced overexposure, then reintroduced the check in elevated, innovative ways, refreshing the icon while preserving heritage.

Riccardo Tisci (2018–2022)

Tisci introduced the TB Monogram to complement the check, often deconstructing or reimagining the pattern for younger audiences while maintaining continuity.

Daniel Lee (2022–Present)

Lee emphasizes British heritage with contemporary expressions, recoloring the check in vibrant hues and pairing it with the revived Equestrian Knight for balanced modernity.

The Check as an Investment Signifier

• Classic check scarves and trench coats tend to hold value better than trend-led pieces.
• Limited editions or archive reissues featuring the check often become collector items.
• Well-maintained vintage check items can appreciate significantly in the resale market.
• High recognition sustains demand in secondary channels.

Counterfeiting Challenges

The check’s desirability makes it a prime target for counterfeiters. Burberry invests in anti-counterfeiting measures including advanced authentication, customs collaboration, consumer education, and legal action.

Digital Era Adaptations

Digital Authentication

Burberry leverages technologies like NFC and blockchain-backed records to help verify authenticity of check-patterned items.

Virtual Fashion

The check appears in digital experiences, gaming collaborations, and NFTs, introducing the icon to new audiences and contexts.

Social Media Presence

The check’s instant recognizability amplifies campaign performance across visual platforms, supporting organic reach and engagement.

Conclusion: Enduring Heritage, Evolving Value

The Burberry check stands as a case study in pattern branding—evolving from functional lining to global luxury signifier. Its dual nature—tradition and innovation, exclusivity and recognition—keeps it culturally relevant and commercially powerful. For collectors and enthusiasts, authentic check pieces represent enduring style and store-of-value characteristics that transcend trends.